Coup in Honduras

Military coups became increasingly unusual owing to the worldwide expansion of democracy during the nineties. The military were progressively separated from politics, out of the relative but yet existent expansion and improvement of democratic institutions, and the possibility for ruling classes to maintain social control without resort to violence. Such process was particularly visible in Latin America. The continent just went through two decades that were convulsed by regime changes from Ecuador to Argentina, yet in general the military did not interfere in political processes, at least publicly and using arms.

However, two days ago Honduras wake us up with a military coup that resonated with the worst moments of the XXth century in the region. We saw again things we though forever gone. The military forcibly deposed the president and embarked him in a plane heading to Costa Rica still in his pyjamas. They retaliated after the president had dismissed the head of the army, who had refused to install ballot boxes for a referendum. Such referendum was an attempt to modify the constitution to enable the President to stand for re-election, although not immediately but after another mandate by someone else. The Parliament opposed this referendum and the Supreme Court declared it illegal. Yet the president insisted in carrying on. The military decided to expedite matters and ignored the constitutional procedure of impeachment to forcibly remove the president from office.

The background: a President coming from the most conservative sectors who made a 180 degree turn to approach Hugo Chavez’s positions, and an elite increasingly worried about its deeply rooted privileges.
The US administration’s reaction was also unusual, but very positive in my opinion: condemn of the violent action, no public interference and ample leeway for the Organization of American States to lead negotiations. The US no longer considers Central America as their backyard? In fact all the Central American elite hold property in Miami, while millions migrate and send their remittances to sustain their families barely out of a line of poverty that is never lowered. My suspicion is that the US does not intervene in the zone the same way it used to do primarily because they do not need it.

In memoriam: Michael Jackson

Thursday evening. I get home, tired after a long working day which I finished with a good swim. One of those when you just enter home and land on the bed. Nonetheless I do not want to sleep without a bit of music. Today I feel for a classic: the last four songs of “Dark Side of the Moon”, by Pink Floyd, a masterpiece of contemporary music. One of those to listen to only from time to time, yet always enjoyable.

I listen lying on my bed, through the iphone headphones. It is the last tunes and the incidental sounds of the very end. A voice says “there is no dark side of the moon, really…” with a heart beating in the background, presumably the same one you can hear at the beginning of the record. Right at this moment, the end of the record, a text message comes in. A good friend says: “Michael Jackson is dead. :(”. Is that so? Oh… Tomorrow will be another day.

Next morning news is all over. Which is logical, given his worldwide popularity. His death came as an unexpected surprise, yet I do not feel particularly sad. I was never his fan, and I always found excessive to devote so much attention to someone who lived in his own amusement park, where he was slowly whitening while facing very serious accusations of child molestation. I found it excessive even if I could understand the reasons behind it.

However, I must acknowledge that Michael Jacksons' decease is the death of a symbol of the last quarter of the XXth century, an artist with a unique impact in the world of music, where he introduced his original fusion of styles, from rock to disco through pop and soul; also for his revolutionary innovations in dance, notably his moon walk. And most of all for being the first Afro-American artist who broke the glass wall and became a world icon for all races alike.

Michael Jackson brings me back to my childhood. I was barely nine years old when the mythical “Thriller” was released. When video clips had just appeared and were slowly making their way in terms of music promotion, Jacko released fifteen minutes of a real movie that kept us all glued to our seats in amazement, in a move that changed the genre forever. This is the Michael Jackson I will remember, the one I feel a part of my cultural background; the member of the Jackson five, the fresh creative man of the first half of the eighties. Before success, popularity and a very complicated history turned him into a pathetic character. Someone who could afford anything he liked but could never be really happy, to the point of turning his life into a circus that will probably continue after his death.

May he rest, finally, in peace.

Why Iran hurts me

Last 13 June there were presidential elections, after a long and mediatised campaign never seen since the Islamic revolution thirty years ago. The supreme leader Ayatollah Khamenei immediately sanctioned the results, by which the outgoing President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad had been re-elected for a margin wider than 60% of the votes. However, there were several powerful reasons to suspect a well-prepared rigging. Among those:
-Khamenei did not wait for the usual three days before announcing the results. These three days are used to discuss and clear any allegations the candidates may have;
-The geographic distribution of Ahmadinejad’s vote was suspiciously uniform. He even won by a landslide in places widely recognized as other candidate’s most favourable territories;
-The opposition candidates denounced their observers had been barred from the polling stations, and that ballots were missing in many places;
-The elections saw an unprecedented turnout. Such moves happen rarely in favour of the maintenance of the status quo. That would be even stranger in a society were the majority of the population had not been born when the Islamic revolution took place.

Khamenei’s reaction gave rise to huge demonstrations that had not been seen since the days of the revolution. The rest is sadly known. On 19 June, at Friday’s prayer, the supreme leader took another step the delegitimation of the institution he represents, by proclaiming that the demonstrations were illegal, not legitimate, and inspired by foreign powers, and that they would be repressed. This was said when, according to official figures, already ten people had been killed. So Khamenei was essentially giving his green light to a bloodbath, while he mortally injured the institution of velayat-el-faqih, by which government and parliament are under the guidance of the religious authority. Khamenei openly associated himself with a clear breach in democracy and with the crackdown on popular revolt.

This move only intensified what the regime had been doing for decades: iron-fist repression inside the country, impeding any demonstration with tear gases, acidic water, batons and live shots, with total freedom of action for the basiji, the youth militia akin for instance to Mugabe’s thugs that terrorized Zimbabwe a year ago –and who continue doing so whenever it is expedient to the regime-; massive arrests. All these combined with intoxication outside the country, accusing everyone of interfering with Iran’s affairs while restricting any access to information, cutting off Internet, expelling journalists or restricting their movements to prevent them from verifying any information they receive, or even attacking the premises of an opposition newspaper and arresting everyone under the accusation of terrorism. Up until now, the only source of information was the people themselves, using the new information technologies.

So far the regime acknowledged some twenty dead people –while some estimates affirm that the real figure could be tenfold-; there have been almost two hundred arrests amongst dissident intellectuals and civil society figures; any attempt to demonstrate continues to be fiercely repressed. The opposition leader did not surrender and denounces his movements have been restricted. At this point the fact that Mr. Moussavi comes from the same regime where he was once the prime Minister became irrelevant. The intestine fight for power has been totally exceeded by the popular movement. Equally irrelevant as the ignominy of the vote recounting, which acknowledged irregularities in 50 districts out of 170; and that there were three million more votes than there were electors. The regime added that, all in all, this last detail does not affect the final result.

What matters is that the regime is tainted with its own people’s blood. There has been an earthquake which will have deep consequences. Iran is seeing its civil rights movement, symbol of the emergence of a new middle class and of the evolution of customs. The regime’s crackdown was for everyone to see. This will not end here.

Some say that solidarity is the tenderness of peoples. Raising my voice for a true democracy in Iran is for me a duty of global citizenship. A citizenship I had the chance to progressively enrich with affective bonds all over the world. These allow me to get first hand information, but also to share impressions, feelings and an outlook. There is also the certainty that anyone who was never deprived of liberty can rarely have a clear conscience of all that it entails. In my case I was lucky enough to grow up in a country that was just liberating itself, but my parents did transmit me the experience of living under a dictatorship. All the aspirations limited by fear; but also the rediscovery of dignity. This goes also to them.

That SIMCA 1200

I am just about to get to the office when I found the jewel in the picture, parked in a corner of Place de Fontenoy, in the heart of Paris’ VII arrondissement. I cannot help taking a picture, as this car is old enough to be very rare. Moreover, this SIMCA immediately evokes a great stream of memories.

For that is my childhood’s car. My parents had one, a SIMCA 1200, which had originally been red and I knew only in blue. Plaque B-8775-Y, it lasted from the early seventies until July 1987, when it was replaced by a Ford Orion. It must have run for more than 150.000 Km. I still remember vaguely that night, on National road II between Malgrat de Mar and Vidreres, in one of the countless allers-retours from Barcelona to Palafrugell, when we excitedly saw the meter going from 99.999 to 00.000.

I always liked that car. It was relatively rare and hence easily recognizable. I used to like its rounded forms that I preferred to other’s cars at the time. I always saw two eyes in those lights, like a smiling face that looked at me. So many hours spent at the back seats with my brother, teasing each other. Seeing a black plaque (a French one, like the one in the picture) would be a pretext to pinch the other. And so many other games that used to irritate our parents. The runs to see who would get to touch the car first after a day on the beach. And the long imaginary travels I used to do when I could sneak in the car and sit at the wheel on my own.

All that melancholy that used to fill me when we would leave Palafrugell for Barcelona and I could see the town through the rear window. The stops in Caldetes to get water at the thermal source. As a small kid I failed to understand how could it be that we could drink it after a while if it was so hot. Those huge traffic jams when going through Mataró, when I used to amuse myself observing the path taken by that coin towards the money box at the neon sign on top of Caixa Laietana. And so many other moments that come to my mind thanks to objects’ enormous evocative power. More than twenty years ago.

Private transport and second residence, symbols of a new middle class emerging from the Francoist “desarrollismo”, the same middle class that finished by forcing the coming of democracy. People who had to build their future by working and remaining passive and silent in a repressed and repressive society, in a regime that was first totalitarian then authoritarian and legitimized itself in this prosperity, yet never abandoned or denounced its violent and criminal essence. This very prosperity was the beginning of the end of that horror. Thanks to the effort of people like my parents I could grow up in a free country.

Moments of sybaritism, #7: my choice of restaurants in Paris (10 more)

As my first entry in English and my restaurant travel-guide-like critiques were gently and warmly welcomed by the friend who had become in this case an amusing muse, and as they were welcomed not only by her but by others as well, I promised to come back with more. Paris does offer a large number of places to eat well. Here are a further few, again with the same premises as last time: less than 20-25€ of expense; informal and relaxed atmosphere; and last but not least, discovered in good company.

Le Chartier
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009
Created in 1896, the whole place is like a living museum. The building was classified as historic in 1989, and hosts a big hall with classic decoration and sober but yet elegant ambiance. Simple cuisine, based on fresh meat, fish and vegetables. All the classics of a Paris Brasserie –Entrecôte, faux filet, etc.-, some all-time French classics –boeuf bourguignon, choucrute-, and the dishes of the day, all inexpensive. Feels a bit like a canteen, as you will see when the energetic but always respectful waiters note your order. Yet the most remarkable one for a simple but tasty meal in a singular place.

T’Chok Dy
35 rue du Banquier, 75013
A few steps from the Factorie des Gobelins, within easy walking distance from Place d’Italie, you can find this surprising small Thai restaurant which proposes traditional cuisine from Siam. Be prepared for the most tasteful experience. The fish is just excellent, from the amazing scallops (Noix de Saint Jacques), the Hor Mok (steamed fish in banana leaves); other specialites are equally enjoyable, such as the chicken in coconut sauce. There are also other delicacies. Never too spicy, always delicious.

Swann et Vincent
32 Bv Garibaldi, 75015
Is it possible that a restaurant where you only go for lunch because it happens to be within walking distance from your workplace becomes one of your favourite ones? Yes it is, provided that it is like the Swann. Cosy, welcoming, warm ambiance. Salads and antipasti that are simple but with first quality ingredients. Tasteful pasta dishes. Carefully cooked meats. Home made bread. A symphony of simplicity. Definitely rare.

Le café du Marché
38 rue Clerc, 75007
Right in the middle of the 7th arrondissement, not far from the Eiffel Tower, in one of the most scenic streets in the area –pedestrian road, rue Clerc- sits this café with an optimal quality-price ratio. Again, brasserie food as simple as delicious. Salads that are a full meal, well cooked meats, well served fish, amazing deserts, good wine and more than acceptable coffee. All these with the possibility of lunching or dining on a terrasse even in wintertime.

Le Cambodge
10 avenue Richerand, 75010
You better go queue before 20h to reserve a table, or be ready to do so afterwards and have a walk or an apéro on Canal St. Martin while you wait (more details on the website, as there are no reservations on the phone). Whichever way the wait will be worth it. You’ll be asked to be creative when writing your order, and indeed you can make it to the house’s museum or the website. A trip to south east Asia in a place with a very strong personality that welcomes you in its own particular manner. My favourite is the Ban Hoy –Angkorian picnic with assorted salad-, but a Bobun or any rice dish will certainly be enjoyable. The house has its particular rules, but you'll feel at home.

Le verre volé
67 rue Lancry, 75010
Again close to my place sits this cave/bistrot with relaxed and informal atmosphere, served by youthful and multilingual staff that will guide you into discovering wines while having some bistrot-like food. Be ready for a very idiosyncratic French cuisine experience, largely based on pork. Definitely abstain if you’re a vegetarian or you don’t eat pork because of religious observance or simply reasons of taste. If, on the contrary, you like it, just go for it. The patés are just amazing, the caillette de l’Ardèche is an experience not to be missed.

Chez Marianne
2, Rue des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, 75004
A charming place in a charming spot, on a corner of rue des Rosiers, in the middle of the Marais, chez Marianne proposes traditional kosher specialities from central Europe, combined with Middle-Eastern recipes such as Falafel or Hummus. Central Europe meets the Mediterranean through the lenses of this millenarian culture. Said to have the best falafel in town.

Lézard Café
32, rue Etienne Marcel, 75002
Another inexpensive an unsophisticated place that will win your heart and stomach through a nice atmosphere and service, and with simple but delicious salads and bistrot cuisine. Nice wines, the Argentinian Malbec is a classic, and a full meal in the terrace to the side of rue Tiquetonne (which is a pedestrian road) will reconcile you with this world. Just off rue Montorgueil, a nice walk from Les Halles.

El Sur
35, boulevard Saint-Germain 75006
Sober modern design that reminded me of my beloved Montevideo, albeit more Gotan than Tango. Just a walk from Ile de Saint Louis or from Place Monge. A good “parrilla” to savour some delicious red meat to the purest River Plate style, with real Chimichurri. I need to refrain from going there often not to get too nostalgic. Empanadas and other criollo specialties, remarkable desserts… Someday I’ll be back to Palermo and walk again those roads that brought me back to my Poblenou.

La Crêperie du comptoir
3, Carrefour de l’Odéon 75006
How dare I refer here a take away place? I do have my reasons. Firstly I love crêpes. Both sucré or salé, as a main course or as a dessert. Secondly, Paris has a culture of take-away crêpes, as a snack that you can eat anytime. I don’t like take away pizzas and find that the general level of kebab in Paris is rather low (sorry but my standard here is the delicious kebabs I used to eat in Rusholme, Manchester), I generally do not like take away sandwiches too much. But I happen to love crêpes.Both ends meet at the Crêperie du comptoir. The only one where you will have a take away with blé noir, as a real galette. Tuna, cheese and marinated tomatoes is my favourite. Great.

One year ago

One year ago, day by day, I was flying. Flying away.

Away from the old Europe, back to Africa. This time to the Southern part of the continent, what was for me terra incognita.

Lands that once again embraced me in the most welcoming fashion. There I saw both the greatest meanings and the meaningless meanness of humanity all. Together in the same physical space, confronted right in face of each other. The dignity regained by all those who had been humiliated for so long. The same dignity subtly or abruptly kidnapped by some who gained it without learning the value of it, without learning the need to treasure, honour and protect it.

Yes, I suffer from the "mal d'Afrique". It has little to do though with the usual pain of those who plunge into deep sadness when holidays are over. It has to do rather with the bruises and wounds left into my very soul by being exposed to and having being part of so blatant contradictions. Those that arise from trying to do something to make things better for all with one hand, while the other hand is forced to hold onto all what is making things worse. Those that come from witnessing the most unfair suffering combined with the greatest indifference, if not the greatest scorn, living door by door. And there is much more.

All this will not prevent me from continuing to celebrate the miracle of life in lands touched by a kind of spirituality that I never found anywhere else. Where you feel part of the land and the people. Where you feel the ubuntu in all its deepness.

Nor it will prevent me from wanting to be back there so badly.

Moments of sybaritism, #6: my choice of restaurants in Paris

Yesterday evening I was celebrating the Chinese New Year with a delicious Chinese dinner right at the heart of Paris’ Chinatown, in the XIII arrondissement. A friend asked me a question that was as apparently simple as it was straightforward: "what is your favourite restaurant in Paris?" Not an easy one to answer. I made an attempt to a listing that I would call “my top ten”. Here it follows, with three caveats:
-I rarely spend more than 20 or 25 € in a restaurant. In this case I must say that the average level of restaurants in Paris is fairly high. Spending 20 € is generally a guarantee of a good meal almost anywhere you go, unlike other places such as, for example, my hometown. Or London for that matter;
-I generally prefer an informal and relaxed atmosphere to an “exclusive” one;
-last but not least: a fundamental part of the experience in a restaurant is of course the company. In this case I must aknowledge that I have been gifted with some friends who really enjoy the pleasure of eating as I do.
Having said that, here we go. Please be advised that the order in which those are presented does not imply a hierarchy of any kind:

Tierra del Fuego
4-6 Rue Sainte Marthe 75010
Situated in rue Sainte Marthe, a few meters from one of the most charming spots in the X arrondissement, Place de Sainte Marthe, a place where you will forget you’re right in the middle of a big city. Tierra del Fuego offers a wide range of Chilean specialities, from empanadas to Ceviche, with other delicacies from the country and from wider South America. The “Pastel de choclo”, a gratinate of minced meat with corn, is excellent. There is also a very well assorted cave where you’ll find a considerable assortment of great quality Chilean wines.

Chez Janou
2, Rue Roger Verlomme 75003
Very close to Place des Vosges, this is a bistrot Provençal which offers specialities from the South East of France in a relaxed and charming atmosphere which feels like all-time rural Mediterranean countryside. The collection of bottles of Pastís is simply amazing, the wines from the Rhone are the guarantee of an interesting afternoon and the specialities are delicately tasty and thoroughly enjoyable.

Pho Dông-Huông
14, rue Louis Bonnet 75011
A few meters away from the Belleville metro station, this place feels like a canteen and appears to be always full of people, with a considerable number of Asians –which, in an Asian restaurant, I tend to take as an indicator of good quality-. One of the rare places where you can actually have a full meal for about 10 €, it is a temple of Tonkin soups and some other Vietnamese specialities. Having been to Viet Nam where I greatly enjoyed the food, I can tell you this place does feel, in a way, like being there.

Le relais gascon
6 rue des Abbesses 75018
Right in the middle of Montmartre, within walking distance from the Place des Abesses, sits this remarkable place specialized in the cuisine of the South West of France. Can you imagine feeling like having had a full meal after just a salad? Well that is the whole point, what they propose could hardly be qualified as “just a salad”. An enormous salad bowl with several greens and tomato, assorted with confit de canard, foie-gras, chèvre cheese on toast, lardons, cantal or any combination you can imagine of other produits du terroir. Always generously accompanied with delicious pommes sautés. Not to be missed.

Koba
7, rue de la Michodière 75002
The area between Opera and Bourse hosts an important concentration of Japanese restaurants of different kinds, from sushi bars to soup counters. Among these, a friend showed me to Koba, a small spot in rue Michaudière with familiar atmosphere and unpredictable but yet always delicious dishes of the day. The sashimi is just great; they do know how to treat fish. If there is toro –greasy tuna- do not hesitate to order. Just relax and prepare to be surprised.

Pizzeria da Carmine
61 rue des Martyrs 75009
On rue des Martyrs, very close to Montmartre. Another one that appears to be always packed. With reason. Pizza the Napoli style, it is as simple as it is delicious. Even being not so fond of pizza myself, I always had a great time dining there. Even with the place completely full of people the waiters and the owners will do everything they can to make you feel comfortable, from offering you pieces of fresh pizza while you wait to presenting you with a nice apéritif. Another remarkable Mediterranean spot.

Gwon’s dinning
51, rue Cambronne 75015
Yet another trip to Asia in the middle of the XV arrondissement. Sober design atmosphere for the venue of –traditional, or so I have been told- Korean recipes, from the barbecue to the Bibimbap. I forgot to ask what was the tea they were serving last time I went there. The way it matched the food was a new and surprising experience to me. Always made me feel like going to Korea. Never disappointed.

Le Gavroche
19, rue Saint-Marc 75002
Right in the centre of Paris, in a small street in the middle of the II arrondissement, sits this very remarkable bistrot. In a city as international as Paris it is rare to find a place where you'll see only French people. The real traditional French cuisine, far from the design and fake sophistication that is sometimes used to hide the lack of ideas. All pure substance, but yet with style. I ate a "carré d'agneau" that will be long remembered. Meat of excellent quality and very well cooked. Nice wine menu. An amazing range of home-made desserts. All with reasonable prices.

Chez Elias
22 Rue Fremicourt, 75015
I discovered this Lebanese restaurant thanks to Lebanese colleagues. On rue Fremicourt, it is apparently owned by the brother of that of El Farès, on Boulevard de Grenelle. While the two restaurants are quite close, the distance when it comes to taste and quality is in the order of miles. Delicious Homous, delightful pastries and delicately marinated and cooked meat. A gate to the middle east cuisine with family atmosphere.

Le Majungais
11, cour des Petites Ecuries 75010
A trip to Madagascar on the cour des petites écuries, in the heart of the X arrondissement, with a very interesting cusine of an island where Africa meets Asia. Spicy and tropical recipes –the chicken with coconut sauce is a real experience-. The fried appetizers are remarkable, and there is a wide offer of punch. The ginger punch is a must for anyone who likes rhum. All of that in a warm and welcoming ambiance.

That was just a selection, there are other places discovered and for sure other places to discover...