Yesterday evening I was celebrating the Chinese New Year with a delicious Chinese dinner right at the heart of Paris’ Chinatown, in the XIII arrondissement. A friend asked me a question that was as apparently simple as it was straightforward: "what is your favourite restaurant in Paris?" Not an easy one to answer. I made an attempt to a listing that I would call “my top ten”. Here it follows, with three caveats:-I rarely spend more than 20 or 25 € in a restaurant. In this case I must say that the average level of restaurants in Paris is fairly high. Spending 20 € is generally a guarantee of a good meal almost anywhere you go, unlike other places such as, for example, my hometown. Or London for that matter;
-I generally prefer an informal and relaxed atmosphere to an “exclusive” one;
-last but not least: a fundamental part of the experience in a restaurant is of course the company. In this case I must aknowledge that I have been gifted with some friends who really enjoy the pleasure of eating as I do.
Having said that, here we go. Please be advised that the order in which those are presented does not imply a hierarchy of any kind:
Tierra del Fuego
4-6 Rue Sainte Marthe 75010
Situated in rue Sainte Marthe, a few meters from one of the most charming spots in the X arrondissement, Place de Sainte Marthe, a place where you will forget you’re right in the middle of a big city. Tierra del Fuego offers a wide range of Chilean specialities, from empanadas to Ceviche, with other delicacies from the country and from wider South America. The “Pastel de choclo”, a gratinate of minced meat with corn, is excellent. There is also a very well assorted cave where you’ll find a considerable assortment of great quality Chilean wines.
Chez Janou
2, Rue Roger Verlomme 75003
Very close to Place des Vosges, this is a bistrot Provençal which offers specialities from the South East of France in a relaxed and charming atmosphere which feels like all-time rural Mediterranean countryside. The collection of bottles of Pastís is simply amazing, the wines from the Rhone are the guarantee of an interesting afternoon and the specialities are delicately tasty and thoroughly enjoyable.
Pho Dông-Huông
14, rue Louis Bonnet 75011
A few meters away from the Belleville metro station, this place feels like a canteen and appears to be always full of people, with a considerable number of Asians –which, in an Asian restaurant, I tend to take as an indicator of good quality-. One of the rare places where you can actually have a full meal for about 10 €, it is a temple of Tonkin soups and some other Vietnamese specialities. Having been to Viet Nam where I greatly enjoyed the food, I can tell you this place does feel, in a way, like being there.
Le relais gascon
6 rue des Abbesses 75018
Right in the middle of Montmartre, within walking distance from the Place des Abesses, sits this remarkable place specialized in the cuisine of the South West of France. Can you imagine feeling like having had a full meal after just a salad? Well that is the whole point, what they propose could hardly be qualified as “just a salad”. An enormous salad bowl with several greens and tomato, assorted with confit de canard, foie-gras, chèvre cheese on toast, lardons, cantal or any combination you can imagine of other produits du terroir. Always generously accompanied with delicious pommes sautés. Not to be missed.
Koba
7, rue de la Michodière 75002
The area between Opera and Bourse hosts an important concentration of Japanese restaurants of different kinds, from sushi bars to soup counters. Among these, a friend showed me to Koba, a small spot in rue Michaudière with familiar atmosphere and unpredictable but yet always delicious dishes of the day. The sashimi is just great; they do know how to treat fish. If there is toro –greasy tuna- do not hesitate to order. Just relax and prepare to be surprised.
Pizzeria da Carmine
61 rue des Martyrs 75009
On rue des Martyrs, very close to Montmartre. Another one that appears to be always packed. With reason. Pizza the Napoli style, it is as simple as it is delicious. Even being not so fond of pizza myself, I always had a great time dining there. Even with the place completely full of people the waiters and the owners will do everything they can to make you feel comfortable, from offering you pieces of fresh pizza while you wait to presenting you with a nice apéritif. Another remarkable Mediterranean spot.
Gwon’s dinning
51, rue Cambronne 75015
Yet another trip to Asia in the middle of the XV arrondissement. Sober design atmosphere for the venue of –traditional, or so I have been told- Korean recipes, from the barbecue to the Bibimbap. I forgot to ask what was the tea they were serving last time I went there. The way it matched the food was a new and surprising experience to me. Always made me feel like going to Korea. Never disappointed.
Le Gavroche
19, rue Saint-Marc 75002
Right in the centre of Paris, in a small street in the middle of the II arrondissement, sits this very remarkable bistrot. In a city as international as Paris it is rare to find a place where you'll see only French people. The real traditional French cuisine, far from the design and fake sophistication that is sometimes used to hide the lack of ideas. All pure substance, but yet with style. I ate a "carré d'agneau" that will be long remembered. Meat of excellent quality and very well cooked. Nice wine menu. An amazing range of home-made desserts. All with reasonable prices.
Chez Elias
22 Rue Fremicourt, 75015
I discovered this Lebanese restaurant thanks to Lebanese colleagues. On rue Fremicourt, it is apparently owned by the brother of that of El Farès, on Boulevard de Grenelle. While the two restaurants are quite close, the distance when it comes to taste and quality is in the order of miles. Delicious Homous, delightful pastries and delicately marinated and cooked meat. A gate to the middle east cuisine with family atmosphere.
Le Majungais
11, cour des Petites Ecuries 75010
A trip to Madagascar on the cour des petites écuries, in the heart of the X arrondissement, with a very interesting cusine of an island where Africa meets Asia. Spicy and tropical recipes –the chicken with coconut sauce is a real experience-. The fried appetizers are remarkable, and there is a wide offer of punch. The ginger punch is a must for anyone who likes rhum. All of that in a warm and welcoming ambiance.
That was just a selection, there are other places discovered and for sure other places to discover...
