Saturday 30 January 2010

Goodbye, Canal Saint Martin

Today I bid farewell to Canal Saint Martin, my center of gravity since I moved in early November 2005. Had arrived in Paris exactly on 30 June the same year, a day before joining UNESCO. That was several days before London was proclaimed host for the 2012 Olympic Games, further deepening the melancholy atmosphere of decline of the last times in Jacques Chirac’s presidency. That was also exactly twelve days before turning thirty.

But I did not get to the canal until November. I had to land in the City of Light as it should, with a good history of nomadism in Paris at some point I will have to sit down to write in detail. I spent a month in my point of arrival at Regis’ place in Rueil-Malmaison, a chic suburb west of Paris, beyond La Défense and Nanterre; August and mid September at Leszek’s, in Malakoff, in the South; not even three nights in the Goutte d'Or, in the heart of Africa in Paris; and survived an entire UNESCO general conference sleeping on a sofa when I was given asylum at Ruth’s in rue Amiral Mouchez, in the thirteenth arrondissement, south of Paris, next to the Butte aux Cailles and the Parc Monstouris.

The small study on the Quai de Valmy, with its wonderful windows on the locks of Recollets, became the balcony of the Tiger: my haven, arrival and departure point of my comings and goings, of the so far three times I left Paris for long periods, always to return there sooner or later. In October 2006 I left for three months to work in the poorest region of Senegal, to return in January and find the canal full of tents for the mobilization in support of homeless people. Only a few months after my return, in early August 2007, I changed the Parisian summer to the damply cold winter of River Plate. I returned from Uruguay just when autumn had taken possession of Paris and the plane trees on the canal had undressed for the winter sleep. Not even a year after that I emptied the studio and packed my bags again to leave for my second African adventure: to Namibia and Zimbabwe, in that spring of 2008 that I started in my African paradise, to finish it in winter in a country that was disintegrating in the grip of a former hero turned into an operetta tyrant. To the canal I returned, physically and morally shattered, in July 2008.

I bid farewell to my everyday geography. The quiet drinks at l'Atmosphère at the corner of the rue des Recollets, or at the Jemmapes, on the other side of the Canal; those moments reading in the sun –when there was sun- on a Sunday afternoon lying on the grass at square Villemin with its view on the canal, after a meal started with an appetizer of oysters bought at the market next to Hôpital Saint Louis, just out of my swim at the Parmentier swimming pool. The walks up the Canal to go to the cinema at Bassin de la Villette; my mornings of seeing a whole city waking up and finding her already awake and mad with noisy traffic on the Place de la Republique; the garbage trucks which seemed to be in the room despite the double glass, and the indefectible queues that formed each day past seven in the evening. The cleaning of streets at seven in the morning, and the calm and stillness of the Canal closed to traffic on Sundays. The long afternoons in spring and summer, with the banks of the Canal full of people picnicking. And the branches of plane trees, which seemed part of the decoration of the house and reminded me at every moment which was the season.

And so many other things, of all the times passed in this peculiar corner of Paris, which was a disreputable industrial suburb for a long time, to become relatively recently an increasingly chic area, the territory of the "bobo" (Bourgeois Bohème). I leave this corner of the rive droite where both Montmartre and the Marais were within reasonable walking distance.

And I leave with the certainty that even if I go for a better place, I'll miss this part of Paris that became mine. A much more common, informal and easygoing Paris than the flamboyant west of the city. A part of me remains forever on the Quai de Valmy, between the water and the plane trees on the Canal.

Monday 11 January 2010

Impressions from Colombia

For the first time in my life I started the New Year in the Southern hemisphere. This time close to the Equator, and hence with warm weather in December. A deeply felt and intense journey in all its aspects. Long awaited, as it was pending since 2007 when I had to postpone it, and as the last part of 2009 was hard to walk through; ideal, as I could take part in the celebration of one of my best friend’s 30th birthday –a Colombian-; deeply felt, as I was in a moment of change and in the best company.

Here are some impressions, knowing that each of them would merit its own entry:

Soroche: the altitude sickness that hits with sudden and big changes in altitude. The body feels the decrease in the percentage of oxygen, one can feel dizziness and any physical exercise becomes difficult, if not painful. I felt it slightly upon my first landing in Bogotá, and much more strongly yesterday when I went from the sea level to three thousand meters in a bit more than an hour. The stroll in Montserrate –the sanctuary that dominates Bogotá, consecrated to the patron saint of Catalonia-, became complicated.

Medellín: an animal. The most interesting city I have seen for a while. With a lot of effort, intelligence and imagination evolved from being the international symbol of narcotrafficking to become a city open to the world and with legitimate aspirations for innovation and leadership. It is very impressive, it reminded me of Sarajevo for its placement among the mountains, but in a tropical version –it is known as the city of eternal spring-; it encompasses all the contrasts of a country so unequal, diverse and fascinating as Colombia, from the mansions in the exclusive areas to the slums that colonized the mountains out of poverty and internally displaced persons, slums which gradually gained their dignity.

Stars: it had been a long while since I had last seen a sky filled with so many shining stars as I could see during the nights at the national natural park of Tayrona, in the Sierra de Santa Marta, where the Andes meet the Caribbean sea. Uribe’s government wanted to turn the place into a massive tourist resort. For once, the environmentalists won the battle to preserve a real jewel. It cannot be reached but by foot and access is restricted. Here is where Colombia should continue emulating Costa Rica rather than the Dominican Republic; quality over quantity in tourism.

Fruit juices: nowhere else I could enjoy fruit juices so much. The culture of fresh fruit juices in Colombia is as great as the variety of available fruits. A fresh juice is anytime a nutritious, hydrating and refreshing element that helps overcoming the rigor of tropical heat. In our latitudes the culture of fruit juices became reduced to tetra packs and to a certain and somehow exclusive culture of healthy lifestyles. A real pity. This is one of a number of things we could learn from Colombia.

The people: warm, extremely gentle and considerate, with an idea of service that I had never seen anywhere, not even in the USofA, where everything including customer service is determined by profit and nothing else. We do not have want you want? We are sorry but we will help you find it even addressing you to our competitors, as our goal is making your life comfortable. Really impressive.

More impressions to follow, if time allows.