Tuesday 7 April 2009

Moments of sybaritism, #7: my choice of restaurants in Paris (10 more)

As my first entry in English and my restaurant travel-guide-like critiques were gently and warmly welcomed by the friend who had become in this case an amusing muse, and as they were welcomed not only by her but by others as well, I promised to come back with more. Paris does offer a large number of places to eat well. Here are a further few, again with the same premises as last time: less than 20-25€ of expense; informal and relaxed atmosphere; and last but not least, discovered in good company.

Le Chartier
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009
Created in 1896, the whole place is like a living museum. The building was classified as historic in 1989, and hosts a big hall with classic decoration and sober but yet elegant ambiance. Simple cuisine, based on fresh meat, fish and vegetables. All the classics of a Paris Brasserie –Entrecôte, faux filet, etc.-, some all-time French classics –boeuf bourguignon, choucrute-, and the dishes of the day, all inexpensive. Feels a bit like a canteen, as you will see when the energetic but always respectful waiters note your order. Yet the most remarkable one for a simple but tasty meal in a singular place.

T’Chok Dy
35 rue du Banquier, 75013
A few steps from the Factorie des Gobelins, within easy walking distance from Place d’Italie, you can find this surprising small Thai restaurant which proposes traditional cuisine from Siam. Be prepared for the most tasteful experience. The fish is just excellent, from the amazing scallops (Noix de Saint Jacques), the Hor Mok (steamed fish in banana leaves); other specialites are equally enjoyable, such as the chicken in coconut sauce. There are also other delicacies. Never too spicy, always delicious.

Swann et Vincent
32 Bv Garibaldi, 75015
Is it possible that a restaurant where you only go for lunch because it happens to be within walking distance from your workplace becomes one of your favourite ones? Yes it is, provided that it is like the Swann. Cosy, welcoming, warm ambiance. Salads and antipasti that are simple but with first quality ingredients. Tasteful pasta dishes. Carefully cooked meats. Home made bread. A symphony of simplicity. Definitely rare.

Le café du Marché
38 rue Clerc, 75007
Right in the middle of the 7th arrondissement, not far from the Eiffel Tower, in one of the most scenic streets in the area –pedestrian road, rue Clerc- sits this café with an optimal quality-price ratio. Again, brasserie food as simple as delicious. Salads that are a full meal, well cooked meats, well served fish, amazing deserts, good wine and more than acceptable coffee. All these with the possibility of lunching or dining on a terrasse even in wintertime.

Le Cambodge
10 avenue Richerand, 75010
You better go queue before 20h to reserve a table, or be ready to do so afterwards and have a walk or an apéro on Canal St. Martin while you wait (more details on the website, as there are no reservations on the phone). Whichever way the wait will be worth it. You’ll be asked to be creative when writing your order, and indeed you can make it to the house’s museum or the website. A trip to south east Asia in a place with a very strong personality that welcomes you in its own particular manner. My favourite is the Ban Hoy –Angkorian picnic with assorted salad-, but a Bobun or any rice dish will certainly be enjoyable. The house has its particular rules, but you'll feel at home.

Le verre volé
67 rue Lancry, 75010
Again close to my place sits this cave/bistrot with relaxed and informal atmosphere, served by youthful and multilingual staff that will guide you into discovering wines while having some bistrot-like food. Be ready for a very idiosyncratic French cuisine experience, largely based on pork. Definitely abstain if you’re a vegetarian or you don’t eat pork because of religious observance or simply reasons of taste. If, on the contrary, you like it, just go for it. The patés are just amazing, the caillette de l’Ardèche is an experience not to be missed.

Chez Marianne
2, Rue des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, 75004
A charming place in a charming spot, on a corner of rue des Rosiers, in the middle of the Marais, chez Marianne proposes traditional kosher specialities from central Europe, combined with Middle-Eastern recipes such as Falafel or Hummus. Central Europe meets the Mediterranean through the lenses of this millenarian culture. Said to have the best falafel in town.

Lézard Café
32, rue Etienne Marcel, 75002
Another inexpensive an unsophisticated place that will win your heart and stomach through a nice atmosphere and service, and with simple but delicious salads and bistrot cuisine. Nice wines, the Argentinian Malbec is a classic, and a full meal in the terrace to the side of rue Tiquetonne (which is a pedestrian road) will reconcile you with this world. Just off rue Montorgueil, a nice walk from Les Halles.

El Sur
35, boulevard Saint-Germain 75006
Sober modern design that reminded me of my beloved Montevideo, albeit more Gotan than Tango. Just a walk from Ile de Saint Louis or from Place Monge. A good “parrilla” to savour some delicious red meat to the purest River Plate style, with real Chimichurri. I need to refrain from going there often not to get too nostalgic. Empanadas and other criollo specialties, remarkable desserts… Someday I’ll be back to Palermo and walk again those roads that brought me back to my Poblenou.

La Crêperie du comptoir
3, Carrefour de l’Odéon 75006
How dare I refer here a take away place? I do have my reasons. Firstly I love crêpes. Both sucré or salé, as a main course or as a dessert. Secondly, Paris has a culture of take-away crêpes, as a snack that you can eat anytime. I don’t like take away pizzas and find that the general level of kebab in Paris is rather low (sorry but my standard here is the delicious kebabs I used to eat in Rusholme, Manchester), I generally do not like take away sandwiches too much. But I happen to love crêpes.Both ends meet at the Crêperie du comptoir. The only one where you will have a take away with blé noir, as a real galette. Tuna, cheese and marinated tomatoes is my favourite. Great.